I had an MOT fail, because of oil contamination
of the left rear brake disc. This results from a hub oil seal
failure, most commonly due to a blocked axle breather. In my case,
the breather was OK.
Always read the proper Land Rover workshop
manual which applies to your vehicle. Hubs and brakes are safety-critical
components.
Drain the axle oil, release the
brake pipe clips from the fittings on the axle casing
Jacking
Engage low-ratio first gear and lock the centre diff. Chock the
wheels which are not to be jacked. Then jack and support the vehicle
on axle stands.
NB the jacking points are the axle casing outboard of radius arm
fittings
I found it helpful to slacken
the caliper bolts before jacking the vehicle.
NB on pre-October 1984 vehicles, the right rear shock absorber
is mounted behind the axle and needs to be removed to get at the
caliper bolts.
| Remove
the brake pads
Undo the caliper bolts -
it's easier to slacken them before jacking - and use cable
ties to suspend the caliper from the road spring |
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Place a container under the hub to catch the inevitable
oil spill
Remove the 5 bolts fixing the drive shaft
to the hub and remove the drive shaft
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up the lock washer on the hub lock nut
This is the LR special tools
box spanner for undoing the hub nut
You can see that it's impossible
to use a torque wrench with this spanner when refitting
the hub - no torque setting is specified in my vehicle's
manual |
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Remove the hub and clean the stub axle
tube
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can see the oil which has leaked onto the the seal face
and the disc. Clean the disc with brake cleaner and remove
the hub seal
It's a good time to clean
the brake caliper as well
It's relatively easy to
renew the brake discs too, if they're worn, by undoing the
five bolts which fix them to the hub (check the
manual for refitting instructions) |
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| On
my vehicle, the hubs have 12mm (part no: RTC3511)
double lip oil seals. You will need LR special tool LRT-54-501
to insert the seal to the correct depth without damaging
the seal lips.
Older vehicles have 8mm
single lip seals, which are fitted differently. Newer vehicles
have inner and outer seals
(check the manual for your vehicle)
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seal is tapped in with the seating tool - don't forget to
make sure that the inner bearing race goes in first!
Pack the bearing with 4-5
fluid ounces of grease (see the manual for recommended lubricants)
before fitting to the stub axle tube |
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| Fit
the outer bearing race, the washer, the inner hub nut, a
new lock washer and the outer locking hub nut
On my vehicle the end float
needs to be checked with a dial test instrument before and
after locking
Procedures vary according
to the age of the vehicle (check the manual for
your vehicle) |
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52mm (1¼" Whit) ½"
drive socket is made by Franklins (TA952)
and is available from Dingocroft
There is no listed torque
setting for the lock nuts on my vehicle's hubs, as you can't
set the torque with the LR tool |
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When you're happy that the end float is
correct and the hub nuts are locked, knock down one segment
of the locking washer onto the inner hub nut and one onto
the outer lock nut
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| Replace
the drive shaft, with a new paper gasket and torque the
5 bolts to the correct setting
(check the manual for your vehicle)
In this vehicle, there is
no additional oil seal in the stub axle tube, as is fitted
to later models
Refit
the caliper, with new brake pads, spring clips and pins
(Apec kits)
Don't forget to renew the pads on the opposite
side as well
Fit the road wheel and torque
the wheel nuts |
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Front Hubs
I had a leak from one of the front hub seals the
following year, just after a clean pass at the MOT. The procedure
for replacing the front hub seal on my 1985 RRC is very similar,
but always check the manual for your vehicle.
The brake pipes are secured to a plate which mounts
onto the top swivel hub bearing and this needs to be released
in order to swing the brake caliper out of the way without bending
the metal pipes. The two bolts are secured with a locking plate
(part number 90576928) which has to be knocked down before
you can get a socket onto the bolts. It needs to be renewed, as
it gets ragged in the process.
It's helpful to bend up a couple of corners of
the new locking tab with a pair of pliers before fitting, so that
you've got something for the drift to get a purchase on when knocking
the tab up after torquing the bolts.
The short front drive shaft comes out in exactly
the same way as the long rear half-shaft.
